Will These Wheels Fit?
Compare your current wheel-and-tire setup to the one you want.
Accepts metric (285/70R17) and truck flotation sizes
(33x12.50R17). Add your measured clearance for a fits / tight / rub verdict.
Current setup
New setup
Optional: your measured clearance today (for a verdict)
Static geometry only. Clearance shrinks
under suspension compression and at full steering lock. Anything within about
10 mm is tight; verify at full lock and full compression before you buy. Wheel
bolt pattern and center bore must also match — see the vehicle pages.
What this calculates
- Fender side: how far the outermost edge (tire or wheel lip, whichever sticks out more) moves toward the fender. Offset change plus half the tire-width change.
- Suspension side: how far the innermost edge moves toward the strut, control arm or frame. This is the rub most people miss.
- Diameter and speedometer: a taller tire raises the vehicle by half the diameter change and makes the speedometer read low by the same percentage the diameter grew.
- Backspacing: mounting face to inner wheel lip, for caliper clearance and what off-road shops quote.
Reading tire sizes
265/70R17: 265 mm section width, sidewall 70% of that (185.5 mm), 17-inch rim. Overall diameter = rim + two sidewalls = 802.8 mm (31.6"). 33x12.50R17: 33-inch diameter, 12.5-inch width, 17-inch rim — the flotation format used on most lifted trucks. The tool converts both.
Common gotchas
- Nominal section width is measured on a specific rim width; each extra half-inch of rim adds roughly 5 mm of tire width. Treat width results as ±5 mm.
- A wider tire on the same wheel grows equally both ways — it eats inner clearance too, not just poke.
- Spacers move the whole assembly out: a 25 mm spacer equals 25 mm less offset.
- Going up more than ~3% in diameter usually calls for a speedometer recalibration and can affect ABS and transmission shift points.